Friday 30 October 2015

Fintry Estate: A Gentile Gem on the Lake
 
We have been enjoying a spectacular late fall.  The mornings have been shrouded in thick mist from the lakes but that melts away under the still-warm autumn sun.  The leaves are stubbornly holding fast to the trees, so there are splashes of bright yellow on the hillsides among the conifers.  The mirrored calmness of the lakes is only broken by ducks and geese that sporadically land then take off in squawking flocks. 

 
My husband and I have not driven along Westside road all the way from Vernon to Kelowna for years, so two weeks ago we decided to take our Miata out for one more trip before it gets parked for the winter.  It was a grand drive along the undulating road, through grasslands, around curves that threw our afternoon shadow over the lake below.  Westside Road has garnered some complaints about pot holes and dangerous curves but its a great road for a little sports car!
About half way to Kelowna we turned left and wound down at steep paved road to a large shelf of land that stretches out into Okanagan Lake.  Created as the delta for Shorts Creek that winds down from behind Terrace Mountain and then spills down the mountainside as a spectacular waterfall before flowing into the lake, this area is known as Fintry Estates.


The area had been occupied by First Nation Tribes through the years as a fishing camp and had trail crossing it which were used during the fur trading days.
The first white man to settle here was Thomas Dolman-Shorts who started the first commercial boating operation on the lake with his trusty boat, 'The Ruth Shorts', named after his mother.  He would row his boat from Okanagan Landing near Vernon to Penticton. 
In 1909 Captain James Cameron Dun-Waters, a wealthy Scot, purchased the estate and called it 'Fintry' after his home in Scotland.  He built the manor house in 1910 and developed the estate as a working farm and orchard.  He was very wealthy but also pragmatic and visionary.

 
We parked our car near the impressive octagonal shaped barn, where he raised his prize winning Aryshire cattle.  Behind the well-preserved farm buildings we followed a trail that lead to a very long series of wooden stairs that took us up along the waterfall which is well hidden on the treed slope.

 
  It is a rather impressive cascade of several falls and pools and is well worth the effort of climbing the stairs.  From the top you get a wonderful view of central Okanagan Lake which was bathed in late afternoon sun. 



Here Captain Dun-Waters built an elaborate and functional hydro plant and irrigation system to electrify and irrigate the estate.  Consisting of a dam, flumes, pipes, bridges and a reservoir, it was a feat no one believed would work, but it did!
Later we ambled across the broad flat fields, through the vacant camp ground and down to the beach.  Here siting on the edge of the water is  a massive very substantial old building, which I assume was the old packing house, from the days when Fintry Estates was a very productive orchard.  I vaguely recall this building from a trip here in the early 70's .  It was mid summer and a wharf extended out into the water where outboard motor boats were moored while their occupants drank cold beer from the pub located in the building.

 
Today there is no wharf off the building or pub, but there is  a boat launch farther along the beach.  The beach area is extensive and I can imagine it is a wonderful place to visit in the summer.

 
Between the farm buildings and the camp ground is the grand old manor house. It is registered on the list of Canada's Historic Places. The design of the house gave it a flavour of being both a pioneer residence and an outpost of British tradition.  Local granite was used for its construction. 
Apparently during WWI Captain Dun-Water and his wife Alice built and ran a hospital for soldiers in Cairo Egypt, returning to Fintry Estates after the war.  Sadly in 1924 Alice died and the manor burned down.  Captain Dun-Water rebuilt the manor, much in the same style as the original home and seven years later remarried. 


When he died in 1939 his wife found life at Fintry too isolating.  The estate was sold for $1 to Fairbridge Farm School, and organization that trained under-privileged British children to be farmers.  It was shut down in 1948 partly because of a decreasing number of students coming from Britain.  it changed hands several times since then and became a Provincial Park in 1996.
During the summer season I understand that the grand manor house is open for self guided tours and is used as a venue for community teas and tours.  During our visit it was closed.  I intend to check this out next summer!



 


Sunday 4 October 2015

Fabulous Fall in the North Okanagan
 
 
I find it difficult to choose a favourite season in the Okanagan and, after living here for 4 years, have come to the conclusion that my favourite season is the one that's happening right now.  So, today, I'll say my favourite season is autumn.

 
Why autumn?  There are many reasons.  The hot summer days that become hazy with heat and lingering smoke from forest fires, are replaced with clearer days with cooler nights.  Often early in September a bit of rain cleans the air and greens up the late summer grasses.  There is an aroma of freshness. 
The tourist traffic dwindles and the back roads see orange school buses  making their morning and afternoon rounds, loading and unloading eager children excited about a new school year.
Harvest is full-on.  This year all the crops are early.

  September is all about apples, with a few later pears, plums, tomatoes, melons and peppers.  And soon the bins at markets and fruit-and-veggie- stands are piled with root veggies and squashes of every size and shape.  By October its pumpkins and grapes.  Such abundance!

 
From the Tuesday before until the Sunday of the Labour Day weekend is the IPE (Interior Provincial Exhibition).  The small City of Armstrong swells with cowboys and farmers, gardeners and bakers, musicians and hustlers, food stands, midway rides, and vendors of everything








Its one of the best Country Fairs anywhere!   We attend every year and are fortunate to not have to find a parking spot as we hop on our bikes and ride from home.
 
 
After a hiatus from regular Sunday hikes, we join the VOC (Vernon Outdoors Club) for some hikes closer to town.  We have to start the morning hikes with a light jacket as the air is fresh but by noon, when we are eating our lunch it is warm and the vistas are clear.  I never tire of the views.
 

Every fall we make a trip down to Gray Monk Winery.  It is a convenient 40 minutes from our door and only 15 minutes from the airport.  My 93 year old mom often flies out here in the fall and loves a visit to the Gray Monk.
 
We plan to pick her up from the airport and then whisk her over to the winery for lunch on the deck of the Grapevine Restaurant.  The hanging pots of flowers are beyond spectacular, and the view of the vineyards and Okanagan Lake is pretty special.
This season we had to make one more trip down to Kangaroos Creek Farm in Lake Country (aka Winfield).
 
This kangaroos sanctuary which also houses other animals, allows the public to feed the animals, pet them and even hold the baby roos in fleecy pouches.  If you are really luck you can feed them as well.  They are open 7 days a week during the summer but close for the winter by late October.

I confess I am a Davison junkie.  We live very close and I walk up to Davison Orchards at least once a week.  Sometimes for an early morning coffee (and a piece of pie), sometimes to buy some fresh fruit or veggies, or to pick up a hostess gift and almost always when we have company.  Today, the first Sunday in October we went up for lunch.  I had pumpkin parmesan soup and half a John Deere Grilled sandwich (and a piece of pie).  There is nowhere you'll get a fresher sandwich and often the pie is still warm.  The place was packed today.  In summer Davison's is full with tourists but at this time of the year it is a magnet for families from the Okanagan.  And for good reason.  The theme now is Pumpkin.


There is a pumpkin fort, pumpkin royalty, pumpkin baking, pumpkin nic-nacs, pumpkin juice, and lots and lots of pumpkins of every size as well as weird and wonderful squashes.




 A highlight for families is the tractor ride out to the pumpkin patch to pick out a pumpkin.  Rides go for $4 and the pumpkin picker goes for $9. 

There is a free professional picture you can have taken out there in the pumpkin patch.






I love this place.  Kids can feed the animals or visit the Crazy Cow Kids' Corral, a playground with an old truck in the middle of a huge sandbox, bales of hay to run over, a web of rope to climb on,  and rubber duckies that float down a course by pumping on an old fashioned water pump.
 
 Before you decide which apples you want, you can try a sample. 
 
 
There are dozens of locally made sauces, jams, dressings, salsas and kitchen gadgets galore. And the bakery counter, filled with pies, muffins and more, had a reminder to pre order your Thanksgiving pies.
 
Ah Fabulous Fall; what could be better?  (Hint: Wonderful Winter)