Three Lakes: Three Choices

 

 

Vernon sits between three lakes, Okanagan to its west, Kalamalka (aka Kal) to its south and Swan Lake to its north.  These three lakes are each unique in size, surrounding scenery and condition of water.   And each is best suited to different aquatic recreation. 

 

 

Vernon was the first major centre in the interior of BC.  As early as the 1860s cattle ranches were established, followed by orchards and farms, logging operations and boat yards.  Steam boats transported fruit and other products up and down Okanagan Lake, and the railroad moved freight and products across the country. Barnard's Express and Stage Line, one of North America's oldest, largest and longest running stage coach companies, located its head office and ranch in Vernon. 

So Vernon was a transportation hub, and the city developed at the juncture of the transport spokes, rather than situating itself on the edge of one of the three surrounding lakes. 

Unfortunately "Greater Vernon", a loose collection of various municipal regions, has never chosen to make development of public spaces along the lakes a priority.  So visitors often pass Vernon by, continuing south to communities like Kelowna and Penticton for their summer lake experiences.

But don't be fooled for a minute.  Those of us who live here, or visitors that have looked a bit farther than manicured grass and lengthy esplanades, have discovered the wonderful opportunities these different lakes, so very close-by, can offer.

Originally, about 10,000 years ago,  the whole valley was filled with one huge lake, the Glacial Lake Penticton, which stretched from Okanagan Falls in the south to the Shuswap Lakes in the north and was as much as 150 metres deeper than the lakes occupying the valley today.  Through many geological and climatic changes, the lakes have taken their present form. 

For the last four years we have lived in Vernon I have spent most of my time around Okanagan and Kalamalka Lakes but this year I have discovered Swan Lake.

 

Rowers from Vernon Rowing and Dragon Boat Club.  Picture from club web site

 

I've joined the Vernon Rowing and Dragon Boat Club and have found myself a new passion.  What better way to start an Okanagan day than alone in a scull, rhythmically dipping your oars silently into the still water?  The few other boats have rushed ahead, some with 2 and 4 paddlers working hard and fast.  Being a novice, I have fallen behind, perhaps partly by choice. As I direct the boat across the lake, the drone of Highway 97 traffic evaporates.  Only the occasional call of a loon close-by or the chirping of blackbirds among the bull-rushes enters the morning calm.  The sun has reached up above Silver Star Mountain and is shining on the water,  The green around the lake smells cool and fresh.  What a way to start the day!

 

Early morning sculling on Swan Lake

 

Swan Lake is shallow and muddy.  It is surrounded by a mix of hayfields, summer cabins and some fancy homes. The south end is marshy.  Here there is a the Swan Lake Nature Reserve and Trails, a great place to spy raptors, terns, owls, shorebirds and warblers. Occasionally there is a kayak or canoe on the lake also some motor boats.  But at 6:00 am its for rowers and loons.

One day this week a friend invited me to go kayaking on Kal Lake.  By the time we put the kayaks in at the boat launch on Kinloch Drive, it was 0930hrs and the sun was hot.  It took no time at all to get organized and into the kayaks.  The lake water felt refreshing but not frigid as we waded in. 

Kal Lake is unquestionably the most beautiful Lake in the Okanagan.  It is a "marl" lake.  As summer warms its water, dissolved calcium carbonate (limestone) forms crystals that reflect sunlight and produce an array of jewel-like shades from aquamarine to periwinkle blue. We floated along the shore gazing down through various hues of blue-green spotting schools of small fish.  Along the way there were carpets of lawn that reached from the water's edge up to some fine old Victorian homes and other modern lake residences, some with docks sticking out adorned with Adirondack chairs and boats, kayaks and surf boards. 

 

Kayaking on Kal Lake  Picture by C James

Large willow tress with branches that touched the ground created spaces of shade.  As we approached Kalamalka Provincial Park, the sun caught the red bark of the Ponderosa Pines and ducklings scattered as we quietly moved through the water. On either side of Rattlesnake Point are beaches, Jade Beach and Juniper Beach, our two favourite places for summer swims.

KalaVida Surf Shop near Kal Beach

 

I was surprised how quiet the lake was, only a couple other kayakers, and stand-up paddle-boarders and one motor boat pulling a slalom skier.  It was a Wednesday morning, a weekend morning would have been a very different scene.  Kal Lake has become THE place for stand-up paddle boarding.  It is a reasonably calm and quiet lake.  Across the road from Kal Beach, at the north end of Kal Lake, is Kalavida Surf Shop, recognized as BC's original paddle-surf shop.  And on busy weekends there are plenty of motor boats, water skiers and wake boarders.

 

Patio at Blue Heron Pub and Restaurant

Our favourite hangout for a summer supper is The Blue Heron, a pub and restaurant with a large waterfront patio on Okanagan Lake.  It has ample parking for cars and boats.  Even on a scorcher day there is a coolness from the lake and the very casual atmosphere encourages you to linger over your cold beer and bistro-fare.  Okanagan Lake, much larger than the other lakes, sees the most boat traffic, with lots of large jet boats,  pontoon boats, and sail boats.  The Vernon Yacht Club houses power and sail boats and every Wednesday and Sunday the sail boats are out in full force enjoying the dependable late afternoon breeze. 

 

Vernon Yacht Club

Ah how lucky we are: three lakes and three different venues for aquatic sports all a mere 15 minutes from our door.

 

 



 

 

Spring Time Around Armstrong

Some of the most pleasant and scenic country to bike through anywhere is in the Shuswap-North Okanagan area.   And the prettiest time of the year to explore is in the spring.  Paved roads that experience little traffic meander up and down hills dressed in that vibrant spring-green. The smell of earthy richness (with the occasional whiff of living cow) fills your head and little lakes shine like jewels in the fresh country air.  

This fact has been noted by the Thompson Okanagan Tourism Region which publishes an excellent booklet, "Shuswap-North Okanagan Cycle Touring" available to order, view or copy at info@shuswaptourism.ca

 

 

 

This year, from mid-April until the end of May, I've been out biking in this area about a half dozen times.  I've seen the tips of asparagus peak through the soil and grow into thick spikes, lilacs with their aromatic soft-purple blossoms cover hedges then, over a couple weeks, fade to be replaced by the pink wild roses and amethyst-coloured phlox along railroad beds and hill sides.
 

 

Into May asparagus fields continue to flourish and this year strawberries have been turning ruby red for two weeks already!  Rich cultivated fields now have rows of young corn plants that are stretching up to the hot sun.  And now all that youthful growth is being soaked by late spring showers.

This season most of my biking in this area has been with the Vernon Outdoors Club (VOC). Before every ride a leader will have scouted the route, calculating time and level of difficulty, scoped out any safety concerns and will have found a scenic place to stop for lunch.  All I've had to do is bring my lunch, show up, and keep up.  The pace is never overwhelming but I am always slightly challenged and feel a communal sense of accomplishment at the end of these rides.

But still a favourite bike ride for me is one that we do several times on our own, from early April until late October. We head to Armstrong along Otter Lake Road and return the same way or via Pleasant Valley Road and Otter Lake X Road.   

Later in the season, when our bike legs are stronger, we will bike from home, about a 60 km trip.  But in the spring we’ll load our bikes into the back of our Honda Element and drive out to Historic  O’Keefe Ranch and unload the bikes.  We cycle to the first turn off to the west, St Anne's Road and follow the road north, staying on Otter Lake Road which veers off to the right. An earthy aroma confirms we are in agricultural country.

At about 3 km we pass Victoria Place RV Bed and Breakfast featuring a Heritage home on a farm first established in 1886.  This would be a great home base for visitors wanting to explore and bike in the Spallumcheen area.   Across the road is an unusual crop.  We guess that the orderly lines of green mounds are Echinacea, yet to bloom 

Soon Otter Lake appears on our right.  Usually it is completely still but sometimes a lone canoe floats across it, barely marking its surface. The road begins to climb and we labour under a hot sun. We stop at the shaded T intersection of Grandview Flats Road to guzzle down some water and then point our bikes downhill.  We streak past a small pull-out on the road and a picnic table at the edge of Otter Lake and continue gliding downhill.

To the left, past Otter Laker Cross Road, is  MacDonald Road, a steep road to the west and perched up it is a warm-yellow  coloured Scandinavian-style home with a clay tile roof.

 

This is the home of Country Home Antiques. Open by appointment only (call Eva Laarson at 250 546 2529 or 546 0434), she specializes in vintage furnishing from Scandinavia.  I confess I have only visited here when I've gone by car.  The hill is steep plus you might find something to buy!

 

It does not seem long before we ride under the wide canopy of the white ash trees that line the road until the intersection of Wood Avenue.Our first stop in Armstrong is on the broad Pleasant Valley Avenue. Here at the Brown Derby Café, home of the “Great Breakfast Special” ($2.99), we dig into our eggs and pan-browned potatoes unconcerned about the wobbly outside plastic table and mixed cutlery.  A plaque beside the door tells us this is a historical building built in 1892 was owned by the son of Overlanders that settled the area in 1862.  

We amble down the main street, stopping at Deep Creek General Store, where you can buy a Globe and Mail newspaper, cowboy boots, and a quart of milk.  Next we sample fine chocolate at Chocoliro, a charming little chocolate store.

 

 

“My wife Yolanda was born into chocolate” co-owner Peter Rotzetter says, explaining a family tradition as we watch her setting the Swiss chocolate into molds.  My favourite is the dark (70% cocoa) with orange pepper.  I plan to return by car to load up on various treats.

 

We continue east to Smith Street, close to Highway 97, and visit the Village Cheese Company, part restaurant, gift store and cheese factory.  We taste samples of artisan cheese: Wild smoked salmon cheddar, Canadian maple cheddar, hores- radish  cheddar and, my favourite, Gerwurtztraminer ripened soft cheese.  After an ice-cream we mount our bikes to head back towards our car. 

 

It is a slow steady hill south out of town on Pleasant Valley Road.  The sun is beating down on us.  At the junction of Pleasant Valley Cross Road we pass the Olde Schoolhouse. Built in 1884 this one-room schoolhouse served the settler families for almost 40 years.  Then it was used as a family home and eventually a storage area for grain and machinery.  Now, during the summer it opens for coffee, tea or lunch, served on fine china.  It’s best to check ahead for hours by calling the owner, Shelia Luniw at 250 546 9190. 

After a slow uphill ride, we pass Good’N Plenty market garden.  This week they are selling strawberries, lettuce, radishes, asparagus and kale at their gate. Eventually we turn off onto Crozier Road.  The next right puts us onto Otter Lake X Road and we coast down some undulating hills before coming to Otter Lake Road.  We now retrace our path up a steep hill, past Otter Lake and back to our car.

The entire trip clocks in at 32.4km (only about 24 km if you go to and from via Otter Lake Road).  That’s what we call a good bike ride!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.