Biking Bliss

In my view, things that make a good cycling day include sunny warm weather, great scenery, interesting sites and outside eateries or picnic spots combined with reasonably  flat terrain.  The Greater Vernon area offers all of this except, to cover any significant distance, you have to tackle hills.  For novice riders like us that has presented a challenge, but one we have risen to this summer.  Not only are we in better shape, we have enjoyed dozens of fabulous days on the road.

In the early spring we joined a few regular Thursday rides with the Vernon Outdoor Club (VOC) through the gently rolling back roads of Lumby/ Lavington and Armstrong /Enderby. The quiet paved roads wind past lush fields of newly sprouting asparagus,  sweet hay and early market garden crops where the smell of rich black earth mingled with the fresh warmth of the spring sun.  Each week the trips seemed to be a bit more challenging and gradually we found our bike legs.

As much as we have enjoyed the VOC spring rides,our favourite cycling starts from our own driveway. Early in the season we started  with shorter trips, usually biking from home through Polson Park to  Friesens Country Tyme Gardens in Coldstream and eating a breakfast of farm fresh eggs and Mennonite sausage on the patio (round trip of 20 km).

Cherry Blossoms in May at the Japanese Garden, Polson Park

Or we headed down Pleasant Valley Road and around Swan Lake via old Kamloops Road (round trip of 25 km)   When we do this route on a Monday or Thursday morning we stop at the Vernon Farmer's market on our way home and fill our pannier bags with local produce after enjoying a coffee and listening to local buskers.

As the summer progresses and our legs get stronger, we  bike along Kalalmalka Road, then Buchanan and Learmouth roads to Lavington where we stop at the Blue Nose Deli for coffee, a fresh baked muffin or their exceptional veggie wrap (round trip 40 km).

Recently we  biked along the east side of Okanagan Lake out to Ellison Provincial Park, a wooded camp- ground with mountain-bike trails etched into the mountain side above the lake and two lovely little beaches with clear azure waters inviting you for a swim  (round trip 30 km with a couple significant hills).

Otter Bay at Ellison Provincial Park

South Bay Beach at Ellison Provincial Park

Turtle crossing along Commonage Road

And, last week, with the encouragement of a few  VOC bikers, we slowly wound ourselves up the Commonage Road past the eagles nest and turtle crossing near Rose's Pond and the  manicured, world-class Predator Ridge Golf Course up to the very highest point of land where Sparkling Hill Resort, the Swarovsky family's only resort and the largest spa in Canada perches, its millions of crystals gleaming in the sun.  This is where we had coffee and strudel overlooking Okanagan Lake before the exhilarating 17 km ride back down into Vernon.

Rose pond in the Commonage

These have been great rides but  the one we have enjoyed the most this summer has been  to Juniper and Jade Beaches in Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park. It has become a weekly ritual.

Lone boat and water skier on Kal Lake

We head down Okanagan Landing Road and swing though Polson Park, which is snuggled in behind the hospital hill along Highway 97.  Coldstream Creek rushes through the park, under little walking bridges and fills a pond where resident ducks paddle awaiting the crusts that little children toss to them.  Behind the blossoms of late summer, a karate group does its routine drill and children squeal with joy in the adjacent splash park.  It is truly a delightful shaded oasis and play area for locals and travelers.
We rumble over the board walk behind the park and then along Kalalmalka Road toward Kal Beach.  Here sun bathers lay on  the hot sand and swimmers and paddle boat riders drift out on the calm lake.
We turn to follow the east side of the lake, past the heritage Mackie Lake House and Sovereign Park, both named for families who previously owned the properties.

Orchards of apples line the road as we climb up  above the lake where a lone kayaker skims by and a water skier creates a rooter tail spray.  We are hot and sweaty when we reach the parking lot and guide our bikes down to the beaches.

Summers are hot in the Okanagan and we usually leave home about 8 o'clock.  The ride takes us a bit more than an hour, and when we arrive we have the beach to ourselves. I am generally not keen on open water swimming, preferring the predictability of pools. But the water is still and clear and it is a fabulous place to swim

Named after an Indian chief, Kalamalka Lake is re-known for its changing hues, from deep blue to aquamarine, as the sunlight is filtered through dissolving minerals.  The effect is stunning.
Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park protects more than 4,200 hectares of grasslands and unique cliff and wetland habitats.  The area was part of the original Coldstream Ranch and during WW ll was used as a commando training area. The local residents had the foresight in the mid 1970's to lobby the provincial government to purchase the property for a park.  There are extensive hiking and biking trails as well as these quiet little beaches.

After we swim and float for a half hour or so we partially dry ourselves in the hot mid- morning sun, but the deep coolness of the lake stays with us as we pedal back towards Vernon with the sun on our backs.
We cycle home via 30 Ave, originally known as Barnard Ave and stop at the Bean Scene, a local coffee bar that is the epicenter for all that is or will be happening in Vernon.  We sip on  an americano  on the  shaded back balcony and then slowly pedal home feeling satisfied and refreshed.

Note:  Kalmalka Lake has been nominated as one of the "best places in Canada" by the Canadian Institute of Planners. 
 You can vote until September 23 at: http://www.cip-icu.ca/greatplaces/en/place.asp?id=6198

Day Tripping in the North Okanagan

Like most Albertans that move to the Okanagan Valley  we get quite a bit of company, mostly other Albertans!  They come for the beaches and the wineries, the fresh fruit, the golf courses, the hiking and fishing, the biking and boating, and, of course, to visit us.  

If it is their first visit, we usually walk with them down the road to Davison Orchard for pie and to Planet Bee to see how bees make honey and to taste honey mead.  If they stay a second day, we often go to Friesens Countrytyme Gardens, to enjoy breakfast in an orchard, and to Kalalmalka Lake Provincial Park for a swim at Jade or Juniper beach, or a hike to Rattlesnake Point.  Then we might take them up to Allan Brook Nature Centre where they can see the whole vista of the North Okanagan: Swan Lake, Kalalmalka Lake and Okanagan Lake while marmots eye them curiously.

If they return for future visits there are dozens more places to discover.  Sometimes we will take them off to explore and sometimes we'll just give them the maps and let them loose.  And, judging from the volume of return guests, they seem pleased with their little tours and happy for more suggestions.

This last week my sister-in-law, who loves to snoop around quaint little towns, funky art galleries and along country roads, returned for a visit. So she and I headed east  along highway 6, passing the apple orchards of Coldstream and the pastures and corn fields surrounding the Village of Lumby.  I had always thought of Lumby as an old dusty sawmill town but there is far less sawdust these days.The main street is lined with lush hanging baskets and banners and it seems like every second building has a historical mural  painted on it.

Vernon Street Lumby

Spawning salmon mural

   
Westopped at the Visitors Center, housed in a small log building, not big enough to swing a cat in, but full of information about guest ranches, luxury b&b's, rustic cabins and wilderness campgrounds all tucked away along streams and lakes in the surrounding  forests and mountains.  There were brochures on activities ranging from horseback riding and fly fishing  to hang gliding and mountain climbing.

But we were interested in exploring the village, so, with a map in hand, started along the salmon trails, wooded pathways that wind along two creeks through the village.  These creeks are the most easterly spawning grounds for Coho and Chinook Salmon.  We joined  other walkers and bikers along the trails which are dotted with interpretive signs and fitness stations..Walking back along Vernon Street we passed Ida's Bakery and the Krazy Llama Cafe where diners had filled outside tables for lunch.  We crossed over to The Village Gallery, an artist run gallery featuring works by local artists  The art is impressive and very reasonably priced.

Having lunch at ida's Bakery

We then drove just east of town and turned south onto Creighton Valley Road. The pavement changed to gravel as the green pastures lead into a forested valley.  We stopped to visit Cozy Cabins Nature Resort and walked down to its small lake.  Kids were playing on the small sandy beach and sunning on the swimming float, while a group of adults gathered around a picnic table.  The 7 cabins on this 40 acre property are discretely placed, some overlooking the lake and others around the meadow.

Garden at Cozy Cabin

 A very short distance farther along Creighton Valley Road we drove along the  emerald-coloured Echo Lake and stopped again to check out the Echo Lake Fishing Resort.  Here wooden cabins perch precariously over the motionless lake.  A couple docks stretch out into the lake with small fishing boats attached and a lone kayak was mirrored in the middle of the lake.

Echo Lake

The road changed back to pavement as it wound itself out of the treed hills and back into green fields.  Here it joined  onto highway 6 and we  headed back into Cherryville.  Originally a gold rush town, named after the wild chokecherries that grew along a creek, Cherryville has one of the most charming little galleries anywhere.  In a whimsically painted former hunting cabin, among aromas of scented soaps and candles we were delighted by colourful glass beads, dishes and murals that surrounded other art.

Cherryville Artisans Shop

On our way home we stopped at Caffe Mazzega in Lumby.  We sipped on our lattes and nibbled on a gelato n' berries crespelle (crepe).  The soft hot crepe melted in our mouths and the tart warm berry juice mingled with the vanilla ice-cream.  It was better than delicious.

  A  half hour later, with a glass of Pinot Gris in hand,  we were sitting on our back deck in Vernon describing our delightful tour to the others. Just another fabulous day in the North Okanagan.

Yesterday We Climbed a Mountain.  

Here we are scrambling up to the very top of  Lakeview Mountain.

 I can't tell you exactly where this is.  I know it is in the Monashee Mountains and accessed by North Fork Road out of the wooded community of Cherryville, that stretches along Highway 6, about 53kms east of Vernon. Although a very pretty drive on a windy highway, you can make good time to Cherryville and the additional 20 km on North Fork Road. However it takes another hour to gingerly drive up the steep switchbacks, over sharp rocks to the trail head.  The bridge over the creek, (I think this is Severide Creek) was precarious, with holes in the deck to maneuver around and then we had to steer to the inside of the road to dodge some washout sections.  But the slow cautions drive was worth it.  A two and half hour moderate hike brought us to Twin Lakes.  Of the few Monashee hikes I have taken with the Vernon Outdoor Club (VOC) this is a real gem and the day was picture perfect!  We ate our lunch beside the lakes and then crawled up through the boulders to the top of Lakeview.  We could see from the hills on the west side of Okanagan Lake to the mountains on the east side of the Arrow Lakes.

Twin lakes

The reason I really don't know where we were is because, except for showing up at the appointed spot, volunteering to drive as our vehicle has reasonably high clearance, and packing our lunch, we were not involved with any of the preparation.
We are members of the Vernon Outdoor Club (www.vernonoutdoorsclub.org ).  The club organizes hikes for every Sunday from the beginning of April until the end of October, (and bike rides and rambles, which are slightly less ambitious hikes, in the spring and fall and snow shoeing outings in the winter). Although there are plenty of seasoned members  that have hiked for decades and can bound up a mountain faster than most thirty  years their junior, there is a continual influx of new members, of varying ages and fitness levels,  all keen to explore the amazing country around Vernon.
 It is a well organized club with teams of volunteers that go out and clear and improve trails. Each hike is assigned to a "leader" who scopes out each trail before the club ventures out, ensures all have a ride (a gratuity is set for members to pay their driver), and gives specific directions to all drivers so we all show up at the trail head.  There are only a few rules: hikers must wear over-the-ankle- hiking boots, they have to stay with the group and no pets are allowed on the hikes.  A "sweep" is assigned, a hiker who will bring up the rear and ensure all the hikers who started the hike, finish the hike.  The atmosphere of each hike is relaxed and friendly.  And for those of us who would never venture off into the wilderness on our own, there is a sense of security knowing within the group are experienced hikers.
In the early spring the hikes are close to Vernon, as close as a 15 minute drive,  but they are still are decent hikes with great views.

View from East Vernon Hill; the trail begins only minutes from downtown Vernon

The Rimrocks, a broken edge of an ancient lava flow.  The trail head for this hike is about 30 minutes from Vernon

As the season continues and the snow at higher altitudes melts, the scheduled hikes move up and often farther from Vernon.  By mid July many of the hikes are in the Monashees. It takes longer to get to the trail heads but the outstanding scenery makes it well worth it!
Before we moved here and joined the VOC, it would have been very unlikely that we would have been on top of a mountain in the Monashees.  We would have had no clue how to access  the trail head and we simply would not have had the confidence to take on such an adventure.  But there we were on Sunday, on top of a mountain, a couple hours from home and all we had to do was join the cavalcade up a rocky road, and follow the leader up the mountain.  We were home having a beer on the back deck by 5:30 feeling pretty good about our accomplishment.
And the cost?  Annual membership is $25.  I reckon it is the best deal in the whole Okanagan Valley!

The Beginning of Sizzling Summer

We ventured up to Silver Star Mountain Resort yesterday.  The last time we were up there, April 8th, it was the final day of the down hill ski season.  There was snow piled high outside all the buildings and hanging from the roofs.  I recall it was actually snowing that day.  Although Silver Star closes in early April, Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre, the epicenter of cross country skiing located adjacent to Silver Star, stays open in April for training and then continues to be open for season pass holders until the end of May.
But by June 29th, all the snow is but a memory and the piles of white are replaced by tall lush grasses, green bushes and wild flowers.

Silver Star Mountain Resort, open for biking and hiking

 The resort opened for its summer season on June 27, with ski runs transformed into mountain bike trails that interlace with hiking trails through meadows of alpine flowers.
Yesterday the June rains had lingered all morning, but by  the time we had checked out the incredible sale on cross country ski gear at the Village Ski Shop, the sun had come out. We enjoyed a coffee at Bugaboos Cafe and Bakery, watching the bikers saunter in and out of the village, all of them splattered with mud from head to toe.

Bugaboos Bakery and Cafe

Bikers splattered with mud and ready to go again

Then we headed up to the Gallery Odin, an art gallery located up on the Knoll at Silver Star that features BC artists.  The gallery was hosting its summer reception, so we mingled with other art enthusiasts, enjoying good wine and great art.
www.galleryodin.com      

Today we woke to a clear sky and the usual freshness of a new Okanagan day.  But the sun was strong and by 9 am when we took a short bike trip it was obvious it was going to be a hot one.  We rode along Bella Vista Drive named because of the view of Okanagan Lake, from the orchard covered hills at the north end.and then cruised down the hill to Kin Beach, one of two larger public beaches at Vernon.  It was still early and the beach was quiet.  Then we headed up Okanagan Avenue, looping around to Bella Vista Drive and home.  

View of north end Okanagan Lake from Bella Vista Drive

Shady, grassy Kin Park and Beach

Then we joined good friends at the Kal Club, a private club on the northwest corner of Kalamalka Lake. The original building was constructed in 1909 by the Long Lake Lumber Company.  Tennis courts were added in 1915 for the enjoyment of some local businessmen.  Today it is a tennis/beach club with a very reasonable annual membership.  The members are local families and the waiting list is understandably long.  Today was one of two days all summer that members can invite guests who live in Vernon.  We enjoyed a picnic lunch under the honey locust trees along the edge of the water.  We were comfy and cool, despite the day's high of 32 degrees C.   I think this is the nicest place in the Vernon area during the summer.  We look forward to being members (in about 9 years!)

Kal Country Club, on Kalamalka Lake

Tennis courts at Kal Club

Then we finished the day at a birthday party for our neighbour.  It was a very special birthday as her husband planned the party, a surprise with about 70 guests. He has been very ill this past year but is well on his way to a full recovery.  Having his wife at his side during the 6 month hospital ordeal was definitely a big factor in his survival. Their outdoor pool was full of children splashing and playing while the adults mingled and the air was full of laughter.  It was wonderful to be part of their celebration

A perfect setting for a summer birthday party

Today is the last day of June and tomorrow is Canada Day.  We'd love to bike down to Polson Park for the celebrations and end the day enjoying the fireworks up on hills south of town.  But we are again off to other places for a couple weeks.  We will enjoy our adventures but its tough to leave home, when you love where you live....

                                                                 
                             
                     
     

A Road Trip

 There are enough places to explore within a couple hours drive of Vernon to entertain for a life time. This week we joined friends for a trip down Okanagan Lake to Naramata.   Snuggled in a dip along the clay cliffs on the south east end of Okanagan Lake it is no wonder that throngs of tourists descend here, mostly during July and August.  Perched upon the cliffs above the town is the Naramata Bench with thousands of lush  acres of vineyards and dozens of small wineries, welcoming visitors into their tasting rooms.  From here the  views stretch from  the City of Penticton, that sits between Okanagan Lake and Skaha Lake further south, and along the west side of the lake with patches of green orchards and vineyards that surround the town of Summerland.  Behind the green are the already dry Ponderosa pine-dotted hills, evidence of the hot semi-arid climate. 

Okanagan Lake and Naramata Bench

The creation of Summerland and Peachland, another town farther north of Summerland, is credited to  John Moore Robinson a politician and newspaper man who arrived here from Manitoba  in 1898.  He originally convinced some prairie farmers to make mining claims in the area but when nothing was found  he bought their land and created a ranch to provide beef for the Caribou Gold Rush.  Realizing more could be produced on the land he divided it into 10 acre lots and resold the land for fruit growing.  With irrigation the land thrived and J M Robinson became very rich.  

In 1907 he began developing the land directly across the lake from Summerland, known as East Summerland.  Robinson renamed it Brighton Beach, to suit his vision of it becoming not just a fruit growing area but a tourist destination.  Then one night in 1907 a seance was held at the home of prominent resident, J S Gillespie.  It is said that Mrs Gillespie was entered by the spirit of the great Sioux Chief, Big Moose.  The Chief spoke so highly of his lovely wife, Nar-ra-mat-tah and Robinson was so charmed by the story that he named the new community Naramata.
In 1908 the elegant Naramata Inn opened and the community became a cultural centre with guests arriving by boat for regattas, concerts and plays.  Then in 1915 the Kettle River Railway  that was punched through the mountains above the town opened, linking it with the rest of the world.  Rail service stopped in 1973 but the rail bed is now busy with bike riders as it is part of the Trans Canada Trail.

Kettle Valley Rail Trail winding through the Naramata Bench

We only stopped at a couple wineries along the Bench.  We tasted the Township 7 Winery's Chardonnay, a wine chosen for a state dinner during Queen Elizabeth's visit in 2010 and enjoyed a delectable sun kissed lunch at The Lake Breeze Wine Farm.

Tasting plate, Lake Breeze Wine Farm

Then we headed down to the Sandy Beach Resort, with its lawns reaching to the water's edge.    Here we enjoyed a lazy afternoon lounging at the outdoor pool.








Before dinner we sipped on a  mellow Gewurtztraminer from Lake Breeze on our private deck overlooking the quiet lake, then ambled down to the Naramata Inn for a very fine dinner.  Sitting on the outside deck surrounding by giants pots of begonias life felt thoroughly pleasant.

View from our private deck at Sandy Beach Resort

The next day, after a canoe trip along the lake shore and a relaxed breakfast we headed down to explore the Skaha Bluffs, south of Penticton and started our slow meander back to Vernon.

The Old Lodge at Sandy Beach Resort in early morning

Climbers at the Skaha Bluffs

 It was a lovely two days but we still were pleased to find ourselves in our favourite place the next morning, out hot tub on our deck in Vernon!

The Meaning of the First Long Weekend of  Summer

Nothing is more celebrated in Canada than the long weekends of summer.  The first of those weekends is officially called Victoria Day but is better known to most Canadians as the "May Long Weekend".  It has been an official holiday in Canada since 1845, to honour Queen Victoria, who was the reigning  monarch of Canada, a British colony at that time.  Even though Canada has been a sovereign country since 1867, the British monarch continues as the titular head of state and Victoria Day continues to be celebrated, even though Queen Victoria died in 1901.  Although her actual birth date was May 24 the holiday occurs on the Monday prior to May 25, in order to assure the date makes a long weekend.
I think it is fair to say that most Canadians don't give the old queen a thought when the weekend comes.  But that does not diminish their enthusiasm for the weekend that is known as the official start to the summer season.  Regardless whether it is sunny and hot, rainy and windy or even cold and snowy,  barbecues come out, camp grounds fill, lake cabins are opened up, boats are launched, gardens planted and a lot of alcohol gets consumed.
In Vernon, we were blessed with a hot sunny weekend   We painted the deck, did some gardening, went hiking, barbecued on the deck and enjoyed eating and drinking outside until late into the long evening.

Lupine blooming above Kal Lake May 2013

 Iris and pink Poppy in the garden

May 2013

The following weekend we visited the States and were in Washington DC for their first long weekend of the summer, celebrated on the last Monday of May known as Memorial Day.Originally in 1868 a day in May  was set aside to honour the dead following the Civil War but there was not country-wide acceptance for the holiday until after WWI when it became a day to honour all Americans who had lost their lives fighting for their country. 

We found the tone of the celebrations to be quite different than our Remembrance Day celebrations in Canada.  The message was very much remembering the dead and acknowledging their contribution to maintaining liberty and freedom, as it is here in Canada, but there was no emphasis on peace replacing war which always seems part of the message here.  Maybe that is because the Americans have spent most of their history engaged in some sort of military conflict: the Indian wars, the War of Independence, the War of 1812, the Mexican-American War, the Civil War (with 600,00 deaths), the Spanish-American War, WWI, WWII, the Korean War, the Vietnam War, the Iraq War, the Afghanistan War....no wonder they are so determined to own guns! 

33,000 flags in Boston Common represent war deaths of Massachusetts residents since 1861

Maryland Sons of Confederate Vets                                Vietnam Vets at Memorial Day 

in Memorial parade Washington 2013                                      Washington 2013

We did not find the crowds large at the Memorial Day ceremonies on the Mall in Washington but had not gone to the Arlington Cemetery.  However later in the day we did find big crowds in Alexandria, the historical town just south of Washington where there was a jazz festival and lots of people enjoying the great early summer weather as they wandered through the shops and lingered in the outdoor restaurants.  More than anything it seemed to be a celebration of summer. 

Alexandria Jazz Festival Memorial Day 2013

Summer Has Arrived!

We've had a solid week of summer weather, with temperatures reaching above 30 degrees and not a cloud in the sky. I took the Miata down to the airport to pick up J last Friday afternoon;  It was the first trip through the valley with the top down. That evening we drove out to the Blue Heron for our first fish and chips platter of the season..  Okanagan Lake was smooth as glass.  The marina was still quiet with a lot of boat slips empty; boaters often don't fill the lakes for another month or more.

Evening view of Kin Beach from deck of the Blue Heron Pub 

Saturday we took a walk up to Davison Orchard to have a piece of apple-crate berry pie and enjoy the view of Vernon and the Coldstream Valley.

View of Vernon from Davison Orchard

Sunday we hopped on bikes, rode down to Okanagan Landing Road and through Polson Park.  The local anglers club were hosting a fishing derby in the duck pond which had been stocked with trout.  Every pint-sized fisherman in all of Vernon seemed to be there.

Fish Derby at Polson Park

We continued along Kalamalka Lake Road to Kal Beach.  The beach was deserted except for a couple sun bathing and a lone kayak waiting for a paddler.

Kayak waiting for a paddler at Kal Beach

We continued along Kalamalka Lake Road to Friesen's Country Tyme Gardens where we had breakfast out in the grassy garden.

Our bike destination, Friesen's Country Tyme Gardens

Later we barbecued on our back deck. We lingered there after dinner, until the air cooled and the  day slipped into darkness.   It was a very good weekend.